we had heard there were hot springs in katherine but we also knew that they were pretty popular i.e. crowded. we had also heard of another area with thermal springs further on the way towards lichfield.

that suited us well: we will be back in katherine later and didn’t want to hang around at this point. we also didn’t mind a stopover on the way to lichfield.

douglas hot springs, or tjuwaliyn by its original name, is about 130 km north of katherine. most of the drive in is sealed except the last few kilometers.

the springs are scared to women and men are not allowed there. apparently ceremonies are performed there to this date, and the wagiman women care for the park. they are doing an amazing job: while the area is of course dry and dusty the camp ground is amazingly well cared for and there are beautiful artworks in the park.

next to the camp runs a stream and the water in the stream is … warm. like a bath tub. all along the creek are areas where warm water bubbles up through the sand. some side arms are cold while others are too hot to step into the water.

finding the right temperature is a matter of walking up and down the stream to balance the warmer and cooler flows. it’s a good idea to bring something to read.

and when the lights go out the show rally starts up in the sky. the stars are one thing: we saw thousands of bats flying overhead, it took them almost half an hour to pass overhead.

we’d never seen anything like this.